織り / Japanese Traditional Weaves
Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.
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平織り: Hira-ori
Plain weave, also called Linen or Tabby Weave, is the simplest and most common form of weaving. It is made by passing each filling yarn over and under each warp yarn, with each row alternating. Plain-weave fabrics that are not printed or given a surface finish have no right or wrong side. They do not unravel easily, but tend to wrinkle and have less absorbency than other weaves.
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繻子織り: Shusu-Ori
Satin weave. It typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. The satin weave is characterized by four or more cool fill or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn or vice versa, four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn.
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綾織り: Aya-Ori
A twill weave can be identified by its diagonal lines. This is a 2/2 twill, with two warp threads crossing every two weft threads. Structure of a 2/2 twill. The offset at each row forms a subtle diagonal pattern.
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西陣織: Nishijin Weave
Nishijin is a district in Kamigyō-ku, Kyoto, Japan, and (by extension) a traditional textile produced there, more narrowly referred to as Nishijin-ori (Nishijin fabric).
Nishijin produces the most sophisticated and lavish Obi you will find in Japan. Nishijin-ori‘s origins are from an ancient Japanese family who immigrated to Kyoto from China around the 5th to 6th century and introduced how to make silk textiles to the local people.
By the 8th century, the royal court had created an official branch to supervise the textile artists and their production. In other words, this was a government owned and operated industry. These artisans used to live together around Chouza machi, Kamigyo ku, Kyoto, which became a textile Mecca.
Between 1467 and 1477, Kyoto suffered a long period of civil war between the East and the West, and many artisans fled Kyoto. As a result, the whole industry was almost extinguished. However, after the war, the artisans returned to Kyoto and revived the textile industry in the area of Imagawa, Omiya, which used to be the fort for the West. Nishijin’s literal translation is the West fort. Since then, the name has been used for the method of weaving to create designs and patterns using dyed threads in Kyoto.
Nishijin Obi come in many colors, including gold, and it is glamorously thick and rich, not to mention quite heavy as well. Nishijin Obi are rather expensive items, but one is enough to last for a lifetime. Nishijin-ori neckties are also very popular today. Their quality and craftsmanship are remarkable. Nishijin also receives orders from famous couture designers around the world. Key holders, wallets, bookmarks and accessories that are made of Nishijin-ori are also great items to own and enjoy for a long time.
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唐山織り: Touzan-Ori
During the Edo period, people called fabric “San-Tome Jima” since it was originally imported from Sao Thome, India. Later, a Japanese prefix was added which translated to “imported products," and people started calling the fabric “Tou San-Tome”. Eventually the fabric would be called “Tou Zan”.
The characteristic of Touzan Weave fabric is its silk-like feel and soft texture. Its unique qualities make it a favorite fabric in Japan.
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裂き織り: Sakiori
‘Sakiori’ is a woven fabric that is produced from worn-out cloth and garments torn into thin stripes, and then woven tightly into clothing and other products for daily use.
These fabrics are durable and warm, becoming softer in texture with use. It became a necessity before the Edo era, when cotton was scarce, and in certain areas where cotton couldn't be grown due to the cold climate in the Nanbu region in eastern Aomori.
Above image: © Sakiori weaving; Image by Amanda Robinette, Western Sakiori (link)
Therefore, cherished cloth was re-used as materials for weaving Kotatsu-gake or warm blankets, and warm working clothes, Obi for Kimono, and so forth. Saki-ori was easy to weave, and was a common pasttime for farming women.
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首里織り: Shuri-Ori
Shuri-ori is one of the foremost fabric of Okinawa, woven in a variety of styles from figured fabric to Kasuri. Shuri-ori adopted Kasuri techniques from the south, and the figured fabric techniques from China.
Women of nobility and the warrior class wore it to show rank. Shuri, where the government of the Ryukyu Kingdom was situated, was an appropriate place for the center of politics and culture. In Shuri, many varieties of dyed fabrics were developed using elegant and sophisticated colors and patterns. This development was intimately linked with overseas trade, as different cultures inspired different textures and patterns..
Shuri-ori is traditionally colored with vegetable dyes. It uses Ryukyu indigo, croton and fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica). It is an elegant fabric dyed in many colors, and worn by the warrior class of Shuri.