Beyond Blue: How Kapital Blends Traditional Japanese Craft with Global Culture


Arguably one of the most well known Japanese apparel brands, Kapital was started in Kojima, Okayama Prefecture, by founder Toshikiyo Hirata in 1984. Hirata had been living and teaching karate in the United States, where he discovered his love for denim and carried the dream of creating his own denim brand with him when he returned to Japan. At the time, the Japanese denim industry was focused on direct reproduction, but he wanted to give it a twist. After opening that first "Capital" factory, he opened his own vintage denim store, also in Kojima. The brand later switched its spelling to Kapital in 1996, as a nod to being the "capital of denim" as well as its roots in Kojima.

Toshikiyo's son Kiro also ventured to America, in his case studying art and not planning to join the family business, but ended up returning and working as an apparel designer for 45RPM, eventually leaving to work with his father at Kapital in 2002. This combination of Kiro's artistic background and Toshikiyo's craftsmanship led to the rebirth of Kapital as it's known today. Outside of the company’s origin in denim production, many garments reflect traditional Japanese techniques such as boro, sashiko, and indigo-dyeing which are ever-present in Kapital's seasonal collections, often reinterpreted in new and avant-garde ways thanks to Kiro's vision. This period also saw the brand expanding into a much wider array of garments beyond jeans. Innovative dye techniques are produced at Kapital’s “Kountry” dye facility, which became the name of their pre-distressed sub-label that launched in 2010, as well as was the title of the original vintage store that Toshikiyo opened.

During his time at 45RPM, Kiro met Eric Kvatek, who became Kapital's photographer and an integral part of the creative process, particularly in the globe-trotting on-location lookbooks that Kapital became known for. These locations are dictated by Kiro’s garment designs, and the cultural touchpoints he pulls from to highlight different lifestyle aspects in different countries. One of these repeated influences comes from American hippie culture, with Kapital’s frequent use of smiley face and peace sign symbology. This highlighting of their influences also shares the brand’s focus on not just the garments, but the story behind the piece as well and how it reflects the wearer’s own story.

The trajectory of the brand faced its most profound shift yet with the passing of founder Toshikiyo Hirata in April 2024. Following his father’s passing, Kiro Hirata stepped into full operational leadership to guide the label’s next era. Shortly thereafter, in the final months of 2024, Kapital entered a monumental new chapter when the LVMH-backed private equity firm L Catterton quietly acquired a majority stake in the company. For a label that built its legend on fiercely independent craftsmanship and small-scale production, this partnership marks an unprecedented intersection of raw Japanese heritage with global luxury infrastructure—ensuring that the eccentric, avant-garde legacy born in the factories of Kojima will echo across the world's largest stage.

There are several specific products that Kapital is known for, including the aforementioned line of boro jackets. Additionally, Kapital is known for its persimmon-dyed Century Denim fabric, which is reinforced with sashiko and therefore fades in a very unique way, as well as their highly collectible bandanas, which include a variety of discharge-printed art. Because of their eye-catching designs and attention to detail and quality, Kapital has become well-loved by celebrities which has helped to increase their global reputation and recognition.


Shop our full collection of Kapital here.